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Domaine Pavelot - Pernand-Vergelesses

Domaine Pavelot fact sheet

Frequently underappreciated, Pernand-Vergelesses often over-delivers and offers Burgundy lovers charming wines at reasonable prices. This is especially true now that a new generation of young vignerons is firmly established in their family domains. Located at the base of the famous Corton-Charlemagne hill on its west facing slope, the village and its surrounding vineyards are home to many exquisitely crafted, mineral driven Chardonnays and Pinots, from the delicate and fruit forward to the more structured and age-worthy wines from the notable Ile des Vergelesses 1er Cru parcel, all possessing a seductive array of cherry, red fruits and more subtle aromas of forest floor and fallen leaves. With improvements in the winemaking facilities, reduction of yields, a more careful selection of fruit bound for the fermenting tank and some village parcels being elevated to 1er Cru status, first class wines are to be discovered that equal those of the surrounding villages.  

The Pavelot family name is woven into the history of the village. Their name is found in the public registry as landholders dating back to the 17th century and is found on street signs and a few of the public buildings. At present, it is the brother/sister team of Luc and Lise Pavelot who manage the 8.6 hectare domaine. Both graduated from Beaune’s renowned winemaking school, both gained experience in regions outside of their home, Luc in northern California at Navarro Vineyards and Lise in the Loire Valley at Domaine Dagueneau, before returning home and taking over from their father Régis, in the early 1990s.

While the wicker baskets pictured on the Pavelot label are the very same baskets currently in use at harvest to collect fruit in the vineyard, there have been many more advances in recent years to elevate the quality of the wines. Since taking over from his father, Luc has been moving decidedly in the direction of sustainable viticulture and in 2009 the domaine received its organic certification. Although there is a nod to tradition here, the winemaking has evolved: for the whites, the fruit is de-stemmed, and pressed before settling into stainless steel tanks and then racked into barrel the following day in order to begin barrel fementation. Only the Aligoté is fermented in tank. The Pinot is destemmed 70%–100%, depending on the cuvée and on the vintage. Cold macerations that last up to 4–5 days are followed by temperature controlled fermentations for 14–18 days in concrete with regular punch downs. Aging takes place for 11–12 months in barrel with a moderate application of new wood as each cuvée and the vintage dictates.

It is worth noting that in recent years, there are more Burgundian winemakers playing with whole cluster fermentation. Although a traditional technique, with the proliferation of modern de-stemming tools in the 70s and 80s, many domaines left this ancient practice behind even though a handful never stopped fashioning their wines in this manner. In the last decade, Luc Pavelot has been gradually increasing the amount of whole clusters into the tanks and in those years when the ripeness is there, he will include as much as 20%–30% of the full bunches, less for the village wine and then edging up for the 1er Crus which can support the higher percentage. There is no question that this procedure adds a spicy, herbal intrigue which contributes to the wine’s complexity, also helping to build a more structured wine. The tradeoff however is that these Pinots are less revealing in their youth in service of a slower evolution and the promise of a longer life. The payoff really comes a year or two after being in bottle when these wines transform and reveal something that is greater than the sum of its parts. After shedding their youthful tannins, they begin to express a range of earthy, forest and secondary aromas that marry intriguingly with their primary red fruits. This internal conversation between terroir and fruit is what makes Burgundy so irresistible and unique in the first place and these wines are an exciting expression of that conversation.

In step with the advances and improvements in winemaking throughout much of Burgundy, the quiet village of Pernand is no longer a mere address for good value. Thanks to the dedication of young winemakers like Luc Pavelot, the village has become a place for quality, terroir driven wines that deserve equal recognition as those of the neighboring villages.

www.domaine-pavelot-pernand.com